Frame Materials: We manufacture most canopies out of Gatorshield coated steel tubing. Gatorshield coating is Allied’s superior, triple-layer rust and corrosion resistant product protection. Gatorshield coated steel tubing has been the standard of excellence and the product of choice for outdoor structures for over 20 years. Gatorshield tubing is given superior corrosion resistance by their patented, in-line Flo-Coat® process. A 99.99% pure zinc coating is applied, then a conversion coating. A clear organic topcoat seals the surface. The result is unmatched, long-lasting rust and corrosion protection. The .PDF binder for this product is available here.
All of our frame are a combination of rigid welded components that are then either bolted or sleeved together. Our professional welders weld the frame, clean and fill their welds. Our painter primes the welds first, then primes the entire frame, then paints the welds, then paints the entire frame to give them their best chance against potential rust.
Frame Color: We protect our frames with a commercial grade primer and 2 part epoxy paint from Pittsburgh paints. Our topcoat is available in white, black, or custom color for an up charge. The paint is designed for exposed commercial applications so it is very successful when it is protected by a fabric cover. We apply our coatings using an electrostatic application, which means the paint and the frame are both electrically charged so the two attract for superior coverage. Because of our painting process, we do not usually paint with our customer’s paint. Instead we’ll match the color as best we can, below is an example of our color pallet. More paint specs and a larger color pallet are available in a .PDF here.
All of our canopy frames are custom made to suit their specific install site. Frame attachment, slope, post attachment, widths, projections, and rafter type drive the frame design.
Frame Attachment: We can attach to most existing walls or use roof brackets to mount on top of a roof but we need to attach to something structural. For wood that means stainless steel lags into wall studs or roof rafters and sometimes a wooden or steel header may be required. For concrete we use Stainless lags with expansion anchors or epoxy set all thread.
Slope: For straight rafter awnings, we recommend a slope of 3 feet over 10 foot projection. This will allow water to drain properly and not pool on top of the cover. For bowed rafter canopies, we can get away with a slightly less slope as water will drain more easily. Both frames need to have a 7′ 6″ clearance for all horizontal metal components to pass Honolulu City Code. The front clearance will usually drive the back attachment point and is the reason why some canopies must be roof mounted.
Post Attachment: The posts on a canopy usually set at 10′ apart from each other. We can go to larger spacing if we increase the size of the front bar or truss it. The posts not only support the weight of the front of the canopy, but provide resistance against uplift forces. The system is sort of like a giant sail, and that makes it important to anchor the posts well. For wooden decks we attach to the main structural supports below finished flooring. For concrete we use stainless lags with expansion anchors or epoxy set all thread. For stone or tile, we need to assassin whether or . For location with no attachment points, we must pour concrete footings and these footings are usually 2′ x 2′ x 2′.
Widths: Frame can be of almost any width. We have manufactured commercial canopies over 100 feet wide. Canopies may also travel around corners, or inside corners